Stand by for Embla, due to open at 122 Russell Street, Melbourne, in mid-November. The Old Norse equivalent of Eve, it's a name linked to grapevines and fire, which seems about right for a wine bar with a wood oven.

Embla is gradually taking shape in a city building that has variously housed a dentist, a bike shop, a rubber stamp maker and a pizza joint.

Stage one, the wine bar, will have seating for about 60 downstairs, at low and high tables, around a small oak bar and beside the kitchen, which will be equipped with a wood grill and oven, says co-owner Christian McCabe.

Town Mouse chef (and Embla partner) Dave Verheul​ is designing the wine-friendly grazing menu. Head chef Peter Cooksley (ex Brooks, Cumulus Inc.) will send out terrine, charcuterie and cheese, along with heftier wood-grilled dishes that can stand in as mains. In the new year, Embla will open for simple breakfasts.

Stage two, later in 2016, will be a restaurant upstairs.

Embla's wine list will have a strong Australian focus. French natural-wine producer Eric Narioo​ is another partner in the project and his motivation for getting involved, says McCabe, is to push the Australian wine scene along.