Captivating European coastline cruise a sure thing for shy first-timers

For those of us who have pre-judged cruising as inauthentic and (whisper it) claustrophobic, a Croatia Intensive voyage with small-ship specialists Azamara Cruises will change minds. After nine days on the Azamara Pursuit, gliding down Croatia's bucket-list island-dotted coastline, I'm here to make the case for cruising as a richly immersive holiday - as its fans already know.

Starting in Venice and ending in Athens, Azamara's Croatia Intensive experience takes in both mainland and island sights: it's hard to imagine a more glorious way to appreciate both the land- and seascapes of this stunning stretch of coastline. There are daily 10-hour shore stops - Azamara dubs it "immersion cruising" - then it's back to the ship for dinner and sunsets, before waking up somewhere new the next morning.

Unexpectedly, my first full day of cruising life is spent hiking. Docking at Opatija on Croatia's north coast, a town filled with grand 19th century buildings harking back to its heyday as a fashionable seaside resort, I board a coach for a 90-minute journey into the mountains to Kamacnik Canyon, where a guide leads us along a wooded ravine, following an emerald-green creek for two miles to the Kamacnik Spring. It's a glimpse of Croatia's inland loveliness, with plenty of time back in Opatija for a wander and swim before returning on-board.

The next day's stop is Zadar, a city famous for both its Roman ruins and contemporary Sea Organ, a series of organ pipes carved into seafront steps, the music created by the lapping waves. I see neither. Instead, I hop aboard a Sail Through The Hidden Beauties of Zadar's Coastline excursion, surely the epitome of island-hopping pinch-me moments. It doesn't disappoint. A small group of nine people, we stop at the tiny island of Ugljan for a swim and explore, before anchoring off-shore for lunch and jumping off the boat into the balmy Adriatic. Back at Zadar by 3pm, I could explore the sights before the Pursuit sets sail at 9pm, but feeling sun-drenched, I head back to the ship and find a shady spot on deck to read my book.

With Azamara-organised excursions fairly pricey - savvy cruise regulars arrange their own in advance or once on shore - I opt to spend the next day fending for myself. The morning starts in spectacular style as the Pursuit sails through the narrow St Anthony Channel separating Sibenik bay from the Adriatic. Passable only by smaller ships, the land is so close it looks within reach. Sibenik itself is a delight, its medieval Old Town streets winding up the hill to the 15th-century St Michael's Fort, once a defensive lookout and now an open-air concert venue. Unable to see inside the city's impressive medieval St James Cathedral due to wedding rehearsals and a baptism, I instead head to the beach, and my daily clear-blue-water swim.

Approaching the halfway mark of the trip, next up is a 13-hour stop in Split, Croatia's second-largest city and home to the extraordinary palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. Built in 295AD for his retirement and overlain with the architecture of subsequent centuries, the UNESCO-listed palace walls and monuments now house contemporary city life. It's a unique location. It's also packed and baking hot on the August day I visit - so after a morning of sightseeing, I retreat back to the ship to have lunch. But with hours still to go before Pursuit sets sail, and determined to continue my daily sea swim, I change into my bikini, grab my Azamara beach towel, and head to Bacvice, a sandy beach just 10 minutes' walk away. Then it's back to my Pursuit verandah for a pre-dinner gin and tonic as I stare out to sea.

This pattern of multiple experiences in one day is one of the trip's highlights. It's so easy to dip in and out of each destination, with none of the usual holiday decision-making around transport or where to eat (more on the ship's gourmet credentials shortly).

Korcula is the next stop, a bijoux island that has escaped the crowds of Croatia's more overrun trophy sights. But before I explore its fortress seafront town, I'm off on a Peljesac Wines & Vineyards excursion to the wine region of the Peljasac Peninsula. Once again, it's a chance to appreciate the beauty of inland Croatia, with its steep limestone cliffs and rolling green vineyards. Even for a wine-lover like me, 10.30am is a bit early to start tasting, but it's fascinating to hear the passion and expertise of the local makers - special mention to the charismatic Maro Bartulovic of Bartul Organic.

As always, there's time for a swim and wander before boarding the Pursuit, and the medieval walled town of Korcula, with its bougainvillea-lined streets and narrow alleyways is a charming precursor to tomorrow's star attraction Dubrovnik - but smaller and less frenetic.

Tipped off by fellow passengers, I have booked myself onto a Guru Walk for historic Dubrovnik. These pay-what-you-please walking tours (run globally) are led by locals, and I join a group of 10 other international visitors for a 90-minute walk led by Vadran, whose knowledge of his home city is riveting. Covering both the medieval history and the complexities of the Balkan War in the 1990s, I'm grateful for his insights as I carry on exploring on my own (bikini packed for a dip at Porporela in the Old Harbour).

There's one more stop, Kotor in Montenegro, before a full sea day as the ship heads to Athens, and for the first time, my reservations about cruising surface. Two other larger ships are moored in this secluded and ancient town's harbour, with crowds of passengers swamping the narrow medieval streets. I feel less like a visitor and more like an invader, and cut my shore time short to head back on-board. It's a blip in an otherwise flawless experience.

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Kotor aside, the richness of destination experiences and the beauty of Croatia's coastline seen from the water have been intoxicating. On-board life has delivered just as many joys. From the comfort of my Stateroom Verandah cabin to the exceptional food in all five restaurants (the Windows Cafe buffet, with its outside tables spanning the ship's stern, is my go-to) to the charm of the crew, I'm smitten, and determined to make an Azamara return trip. From cruise naysayer to convert, it's been quite the journey - and next time, I'll know all of the insider tips.

THE SHIP: Azamara Pursuit.

THE SIZE: 180 metres long, 335 staterooms, 702 passengers, 408 crew.

GOOD TO KNOW: Every package includes complimentary dining and a selection of soft and alcoholic drinks, room service, internet (although it's weak so upgrading to a paid-for option is recommended), tips and self-service laundry.

GET ON BOARD: Azamara Pursuit's 2025 and 2026 voyages include a 10-night Croatia Intensive in July 2025, seven-night Greece Intensive in October 2025 and 14-night Japan Intensive in March 2026.

EXPLORE MORE: azamara.com

The writer was a guest of Azamara Cruises.

Pictures: Unsplash; supplied.