This incredible Asian ski resort offers more than meets the eye

While snow is its biggest drawcard, there's more to the "belly button of Hokkaido" than the slopes.

In a small but bustling cafe at the base of Furano ski resort, Australian accents are more prominent than Japanese speakers as skiers pile in for a flat white before hitting the slopes. While I sip on my barista-made coffee at Ronin Coffee - unsurprisingly owned by an Aussie - I overhear two couples talking about what else they can do in Furano besides skiing.

"It just doesn't seem like there are many activities here," one of them says to the group. After spending the best part of a week in the town, I wish I could track them down and tell them how wrong they were. Furano, known as the belly button of Hokkaido thanks to its location in the middle of the northern island, has plenty on offer when you need a day off to rest your legs.

While it's true Furano is more than a ski destination, there's no denying the snow is what draws most visitors in. Lift passes are very reasonably priced at about $70 per day (or free for children under 12) and the terrain offers a good mix of beginner slopes and more challenging, steeper runs. Being there in late February and early March also gives us the advantage of shorter lift lines and fewer people on the slopes.

Furano ski resort, owned by Japan's Prince Hotels, prides itself on its light, fluffy snow, nicknamed "bonchi powder". It makes for incredible off-piste skiing, we're told by a couple of young Aussie blokes who run a touring company, Alpine Backcountry. While exploring the backcountry isn't on the agenda on this trip, guides Sam and Kaspar spend the day showing us the two zones of the mountain: Furano and Kitanomine to the north. We explore most of the resort in a day, with time for a warm bowl of noodles from Ramen Corner at the base of the Furano Ropeway, which carts 100 passengers up the mountain every 10 minutes. princehotels.com/en/ski/furano; alpinebackcountry.com.au/backcountry-japan

Locals are quick to explain Furano is not just a ski resort but an agricultural city first and foremost. Large farms sit on either side of the main road into Furano, each producing a long list of fruit and vegetables. Melons, pumpkins, potatoes and cabbage are just a few. For a taste of the local produce, we drive about 20 minutes to Endo Farm for their winter cabbage experience with tour operator Urespa+Furano.

Donned in our ski clothes and gumboots, we're handed a shovel, shown to a spot within a snow-covered field and told to start digging. We're looking for cabbages that had been harvested prior to winter and buried underneath the cold snow, which is said to preserve their freshness and sweetness. After collecting about half a dozen cabbages - which are super sweet and crunchy when eaten raw - we strap them into a plastic sled and lead them through the snow to a small tent where a chef is ready to turn them into lunch. "The snow is very important for our life, not just skiing," tour coordinator Yumiko says while we devour a bowl of soup, with homemade sausage, potato, carrot and, of course, cabbage. urespa-furano.jp

Furano's rich agricultural industry also extends to wine, which is produced by a handful of private businesses and one government-run vineyard. The Furano City government established Furano Wine, a research and production factory, in 1972 to promote agricultural commerce and tourism. Inside the large factory, we sample the extensive list of wines and watch the bottling process from a viewing platform above.

A few minutes up the road is Domaine Raison, a boutique, private winery set inside a tall, barn-like building. A goat tied to a string of balloons is featured on the logo for the winery, which describes itself as a "winery made with goats". After some bewilderment, we're told the goats graze on the fields outside during the warmer months and then naturally fertilise the soil, completing what the winery calls a "sustainable energy cycle". The wines at Domaine Raison are light with the sweetness dialled up but the Balloon Kerner - a Riesling-style German grape variety - is the pick of the bunch. furanowine.jp; domaine-raison.com

Ever wondered what happens to golf courses during a Japan winter? One snow-covered course in Furano becomes the perfect terrain for snowmobile tours, run by leisure tourism operator Asobiya. Arriving at the course, we're shown to our snowmobiles that we'll each be driving on the 10-kilometre course.

This is not the experience for thrill-seekers; it's designed for beginners, even those without a driver's licence. After a quick lesson and test ride, we take off on the mostly flat course behind an instructor who guides us over bridges and through snow-covered trees. asobiya.jp

Most of the accommodation, such as the chic Nozo Hotel where we're staying, is located in walking distance to the ski resort but it's worth catching a cab into town (all of 10 minutes away) where you'll find grocery shops, karaoke bars and restaurants. While it originated in Sapporo, soup curry is a popular dish served in Furano and is highly sought after.

There's a half-hour wait to be seated when we arrive at Furanoya Curry Shop around midday. There are a few types to choose from - chicken, vegetables, a combination of the two - and diners choose their level of spiciness from one to 10. Served with a side of rice, the soup has a rich, meaty flavour with subtle hints of aniseed throughout. It's worth the wait.

A cheesemaking class at Furano Cheese Factory or a trip to Rokkatei - a local chocolate and biscuit producer - are both good back-up options. The poor ballooning weather also came with a fresh dump of snow overnight so we grab our ski gear - hired from Rhythm at the base of the Kitanomine zone - and head back up to the mountain for one last run. alpn.co.jp; furano-cheese.jp; rokkatei.co.jp

The writer travelled courtesy of Nozo Hotel.

Pictures: Shutterstock; Brittney Levinson