Go beyond the resorts into the beating heart of Fiji

I've been to Fiji before. It was nice - the land of lush green vegetation, turquoise waters and smiling souls never disappoints. But it was nothing like my most recent trip to paradise.

This time around I went to places where few can venture. I went to remote island villages where permission had to be sought from the island chief to set foot on their soil. I swam and snorkelled in tropical waters bursting with sea life. It was the real, authentic Fiji, an experience like no other.

All this came courtesy of Captain Cook Cruises Fiji, which has unveiled a series of voyages that take passengers to the far-flung Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands on its newly acquired expedition vessel, the MS Caledonian Sky.

The mainland, dotted with swanky coastal resorts and palm-fringed beaches, is one thing, but this four-night trip around the northern Yasawa archipelago took Fiji to a whole new level. The size of the Caledonian Sky - at 90 metres long, it has capacity for just 114 guests - allows it to negotiate remote islands, reefs and shallow bays where bigger ships are unable to go, showcasing the real Fiji and giving passengers a deep cultural experience.

We boarded the ship at the port of Lautoka - about a 30-minute drive from Nadi International Airport. Our skipper was maritime master Captain Peter Martin who is helping launch this new era of luxury expedition cruising in Fiji.

Amazing snorkelling, hiking, paddling, kayaking, ocean swimming, lazing on the deck or the beach awaited. Marine biologists form part of the ship's crew and shared their knowledge of the sea life we experienced over the four days.

The passengers on board came from a range of backgrounds. There was a young couple, originally from Ireland but now residing in Western Australia; a multi generational family celebrating grandad's 79^th birthday; young families with primary school-age kids and an older couple from Melbourne, each with some mobility issues.

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But age and mobility issues proved no barrier on this cruise with everyone enjoying shore excursions and activities with the assiance of an outstanding crew. And at the end of each day there were luxury cabins to retreat to. My premium balcony suite was flashy with dark timber walls, brass fittings and green-hued furnishings. The cabin, complete with a walk-in wardrobe, was kept meticulously clean.

Day one started with lunch followed by a safety briefing and an introduction to the expedition team. Then it was straight into the activities as our ship pushed through the picture-perfect waters of the South Pacific.

We anchored off Tivua private island and enjoyed an afternoon of snorkelling, stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking and swimming. Afterwards we enjoyed canapes and cocktails on the Expedition Deck.

Day two saw us sign up for ocean swimming, snorkelling and a visit to Yaqeta West where, in the afternoon - and carrying donations of books, pens, pencils, games and soccer balls - we visited a primary school and met the students and principal of Yaqeta Village School for an insight into their day-to-day curriculum.

Their classrooms were modest, sparsely furnished with just the basics - desks, chairs and a blackboard. Principal Frank Hilton said the future for these children holds few employment possibilities with three choices - farming, fishing or heading to the mainland to work in the hospitality industry.

Our day continued with beach activities before returning to the ship to don our all-white apparel for the captain's welcome dinner. While water sports continued on day three, I opted for a massage followed by a cocktail or two as I took in the view from the main deck. But the highlight of the day was a dip in the Eagle of Sawa-I-Lau cave and an evening visit to Matacawalevu village.

After learning that a giant eel lived in the deep waters of the spectacular Sawa-I-Lau grotto I was a little reluctant to jump in but after some peer-group pressure I ventured in - and was so glad I did.

Later that day our tenders took us to shore at Matacawalevu village, a place of modest homes with tin roofs held down by besser blocks, and children playing happily. To respect Fijian traditions we were asked to dress with our shoulders and knees covered, and not to wear hats or sunglasses in the village. Here we witnessed the traditional way of life, shopping at the local shell and handicraft market set up by local women and experiencing a Sevusevu ceremony, Lovo feast (a Fijian dinner cooked in an earth oven) and the Meke - a celebration of song and dance performed by the villagers. We returned to the ship for a dessert buffet and a Kava ceremony with the crew.

On our last day on board we had our final snorkel, off Viwa Island - the most spectacular snorkel of the cruise, the vibrant colours of the fish and coral taking my breath away.

There is so much more to Fiji than just a getaway to an opulent resort. The people, their culture, what lies beneath the surface of the ocean are all worth exploring.

THE SHIP: Captain Cook Cruises Fiji's MS Caledonian Sky

THE SIZE: 90 metres, 57 cabins, 114 guests

GOOD TO KNOW: There's an onboard gym and day spa, all meals are included in the fare, and snorkelling equipment is supplied.

GET ON BOARD: Captain Cook Cruises Fiji has launched a special promotion offering three nights free on all seven-night itineraries for 2024 on the MS Caledonian Sky, with fares from $4396 per person twin share.

EXPLORE MORE: captaincookcruisesfiji.com

The writer was a guest of Captain Cook Cruises Fiji.